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How to Go About Changing Your Cars Motor Oil

So then, why would you want to learn how to change your own cars oil? The simple and straight forward answer to this is because it will save you valuable time and money. No long waiting in queues at your local car service garage or oil changing shop. For around 10 dollars you are able to purchase a new oil filter and some quality oil for the engine.

Three easy steps are required when changing your cars oil:

1. Draining away the old oil.
2. Taking the old oil filter out and replacing it with a new one.
3. Placing the new oil into the engine.

To know when to go ahead and change your cars motor oil consult the manual for the car. What is typical is that manufacturers recommend that for a usual service you should change the oil every 6000 miles, every 3000 miles for a car that has been heavily used. Cleaning the cars engine of oil just before selling it increases your chance of the engine sounding at the very least satisfactory to any potential buyer, often even with over 100,000 miles on the clock! A great tip with oil changing is to make a change after a cars first 300 miles in it's so called 'break-in period'. Afterwards, changing the oil every 6000 miles is usually adequate.

As to what type of oil to use don't go for the cheapest out there since this will simply mean your engine will wear out faster with use. The best oils to use are those that pass the American Petroleum Institute (API) classification SL. Pennzoil, Mobil, Quaker State, Havoline or Valvoline brands of oils are reliable, containing substances that prolong the life of an engine.

If just before winter you decide to change your oil a great lubricant to use is SAE 10W30 weight oil. This oils thin 10 weight viscosity is great for helping the car to start when in cold weather. Upon the engine warming up the viscosity increases to 30 weight providing a greater degree of protection. On the other hand, if you seek to replace the oil just before summer SAE 10W40 weight oil is better. This is heavier, at 40 weight, better protecting your engine in hot weather.

To begin with you need to allow the engine to get nice and cool. Modern day engines tend to run at about 300 F, at this temperature you are easily burnt by hot oil. If you feel you have the necessary protective outerwear then you could drive the car round the block until its engine has warmed up. This will mean the oil is thinner and so will drain out of the engine better.

Do this whole oil changing procedure on a nice and flat, firm area like a driveway or the road. Jack the car up, but make sure you use jack stands before you get under the car to locate find the oil drain. No oil change is worth even the slightest chance of death!

Step 1. To drain the remaining existing oil find the plug for the oil drain and turn it clockwise. The plug needs to be started with your fingers. If at all difficult to turn, don't continue, turn a little the other way to stop crossing the threads. If you have time give the engine an our or so to let the last of the drops of dirty oil fall from the engine.

Step 2. Putting a new oil filter into the car involves initially placing the oil catch pan below the oil filter. With the aid of an oil filter wrench take out the filter.

Strap type oil filter wrenches are especially good for this task. Socket type oil filter tools are used with ratchets, as with a normal socket. One problem with this type of tool is it has the frustrating ability of getting stuck on the filter one time too many. Only use the socket type tool if not enough clearance exists around the filter for the more effective strap type tool.

Using your finger place a thin coating of motor oil upon the gasket of the new filter to improve its seal.

What follows is a very important set of rules that must be followed properly to avoid potential disaster.

Place the new filter into the car with your hands, stop turning if there is any minor difficulty experienced, take it out and try again carefully. As before, threads must not be allowed to cross. The majority of filters have instructions on them detailing that one further turn is applicable once in contact with the gasket.

Ensure the filter is screwed on so that it is hard to turn further with your hands. Using the oil filter wrench increase the torsion a little further by around 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn (very important).

A loosely fitted filter results in oil gushing our once the engine is started due to the high internal pressure exerted. If oil does appear you need to immediately turn off the engine otherwise it could be in danger of ceasing up literally within seconds.

Too tight a seal to the gasket and you may well end up with a seal that is hard to undo. In this case, if you have sufficient room about the filter you could possibly partially hammer a screwdriver or similar into the filter casing and body to then be able to push it round.

It is important to note that GM's dual-overhead-cam EcoTec engine is unusual in that it has an oil filter positioned at the top of the engine. To remove the filter more easily you should remove the hose for the air intake. The oil filter canister sits below and on the right of the end of the open tube that intakes the air. The correct size wrench is required to take the canister lid off. Specific filter cartridges are used here.

Step 3. New oil must now be added to the engine. On the valve cover should be the oil filler cap, make sure that this is the correct cap! Then remove it, and start to pour the oil into the engine, via a funnel preferably.

The correct quantity of oil to add to the engine should be stated in the car manual. The majority of engines can take 4-5 quarts. Remember not to overfill the crank case. Excess oil may be blown through the PCV valve potentially causing the engine to stall, when the engine is started.

Place the oil filler cap back on securely.

Lastly, turn the engine on, keep watching the warning light for the oil to ensure that it turns off. No oil should be leaking from under the vehicle. Turn off the engine, wait for a minute so as to let the oil drain down to the crank case, then with the dip stick check the level of the oil.

Locate and pull the dip stick out, clean the measuring end with a cloth or other nearby absorptive material and place the stick right the way back into its sheath. Wait for a few seconds then take the stick back out to see the oil level. The oil level should be between the maximum and minimum oil levels marked on the measuring section of the stick, ideally 3/4 of the way up.

Try and recycle your used oil since it is illegal to dispose of improperly. Pour the collected oil into containers for easy transport to your local recycling unit.

There you go, you have now learnt one of the most significant ways of extending the life of your engine.

About the Author

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If SAE tools come in 1/4,3/8,1/2.3/4,1 in. drive Why don't metric tools come in metric drives?

Not that I want to Buy the ratchet Just curiosity I guess?

Because we invented the socket wrench.

The modern socket wrench, with interchangeable sockets, was invented by an American tool manufacturing employee named Joe Johnson in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Previously, sockets were attached to the handle, so different-sized nuts required different wrenches. He and a co-worker, William Seidemann, formed the Snap-on Wrench Company, which is now Snap-on Inc. of Kenosha, Wisconsin, a large tool manufacturer.