Archive for the ‘caravan’ tag
Drain Portable
Drain Portable
Newair Acp-1300e Portable Ac – Just in Time for Summer!
When it comes to beating the summer heat, most people look to air conditioners to stay cool. The majority of air conditioning units are situated in a window and are usually installed in convention single- and double- hung windows, but some models can be installed in sliding windows as well. In addition, some homes are also equipped with central air conditioning systems. These air conditioners work from a central location to distribute air within a home or building. The only problem with these two types of air conditioning systems lies in the fact that they require permanent installation or may not be suitable for apartments or condominiums – areas where there are space or installation constraints.
With that said, a portable air conditioner is the solution. Primarily used for spot or supplemental cooling, portable air conditioners are great for cooling individual rooms, offices, or even computer server rooms because they can be moved from room to room and offer quick installation without lifting or damaging window sills. Nonetheless, when choosing a portable air conditioner, the key is to find a unit that’s not too small to cool the room and not large enough to waste energy.
As such, our product team has been testing a range of the most popular portable air conditioners on the market, and we’ve come across NewAir’s most recent product offering: the NewAir ACP-1300E portable AC. Featuring an ample 13,000 BTUs of cooling power, this unit was not only powerful and affordable, but also chock full of exciting features. We tested this unit on a muggy Los Angeles afternoon in a 200 square foot bedroom of an apartment. Here is our review:
First Impression
According to NewAir, the AC-1300E portable air conditioner is very similar to the ACP-1400E, but with a newly styled body. The sleek white finish made the unit unobtrusive and the elongated body design was perfect for corner placement in our bedroom. The VFD screen was easy to ready and provided bright light and clear contrast. We were also pleasantly surprised to learn that the screen lit up in the dark. Large, built-in casters let us move the unit from the bedroom and down the hall with ease, while the remote control allowed us to control the NewAir ACP-1400E from 50 feet across the room. Moreover, we were also happy to note that this unit used a standard 120-vot household outlet.
Cooling Power
The NewAir ACP-1300E featured 13,000 BTUs of cooling power and this was more than enough to cool our bedroom. Auto-evaporative technology eliminated the need to empty any drain buckets, and we found that the exhaust hose was wider and larger in diameter than those found in other competing models. In turn, this resulted in more efficient cooling and better airflow.
Dehumidification
In addition to providing cooling, this portable air conditioner also acted as a dehumidifier due to the refrigeration cycle. The NewAir ACP-1300E had an extremely large dehumidification capacity of up to 120 pints per day while using only 950 watts /10.8 amps of power.
Nose Level
While not completely silent, the NewAir ACP-1300E portable air conditioner was very quiet even on the highest fan setting (less than 52 decibels). We had the television on with the air conditioner running and found that it did not disturb our indoor environment in the least.
Built-In Air Purifier
The NewAir ACP-1300E was definitely multifunctional because it also included a built-in air purification system. Large airborne particles first passed through the washable air filter, while smaller particles were attracted onto electrostatic plates via the ionizer. Lastly, to address noxious household odors, an activated carbon was able to aid with odor adsorption.
In closing, we found the NewAir ACP-1300E to be a great portable air conditioner that was perfect for cooling personal spaces. With so many wonderful features, this unit proved to be a great buy.
About the Author
Jeanie Wong is a product editor with extensive knowledge of air conditioners and heaters.
Is it possible to drill directly into a PVC drain pipe to create another drain?
I have a portable AC unit which spits out about five gallons of water per day (I live in Florida) which I have been emptying into a bucket.
My goal is to create a drain that the AC unit can drain directly into. I have located a drain pipe (coming from a bathroom faucet) that I can easily access.
My question is, can I just drill a hole into the drain pipe and insert and seal w/ pvc glue a smaller PVC pipe which I could then hook the AC unit up to? I figured this would be much easier than having to plumb in a T joint (I think thats what its called).
If this is possible, would I need to make a trap or could I just have it directly hooked up?
Thanks!
Greg
Yes you can do this.
YES you need a trap to prevent the back-flow of methane gas.
I wouldn't do this if you have a septic system; it invites a potential problem [although minimal] with the drainfield and the unknowns of the effects of two bacterial/fungus composition
edit
Consider using a fitting that can be "capped" when not in use.
[some boneheads can't read i.e. "portable".
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Portable air conditioner installation hacked - no window exhaust, recycle air waste, direct drain
Yellow Urethane
Yellow Urethane
Body Kit
The top reason why people customize their wheels with a body kit is the looks but the body kit can improve as well the overall performance of your vehicle. Before getting started on buying a body kit, take into consideration certain concerns.
A body kit typically includes ground effects usually an air dam and side skirts. These ground effects fit on the vehicle's bottom edges and improves the down force by altering the air flow. The car looks lowered to the ground.
A kit can also include spoilers and wings. Under the front bumper is positioned a front spoiler to lessen the aerodynamic drag. A spoiler on the rear creates a down force to help increase grip or traction during acceleration.
The material that the body kit is made of should be considered. Generally there are two types of materials used in fabricating kits. You have the urethane and the fiberglass. Fiberglass has a better fit and can be repaired if a piece gets damaged. On the other hand, urethane once it gets damaged cannot be repaired but it is more resistant to soft impacts. Fiberglass has a better finish than urethane, and the paint generally looks better on it. Urethane is advisable if you live in an area that has rough roads and snow. Fiberglass is ideal with smooth roads and with a decent weather.
When you have considered a particular kit, calling the manufacturer of that kit would be good. Ask for what material your choice body kit is made of, if there is any warranty and if it is necessary for factory pieces from your vehicle's safety structure to be removed in order that the kit will fit accordingly. If it is necessary for the factory pieces to be removed, then don't bother buying the kit. Avoid purchasing body kits that require factory pieces from your car's structure to be removed.
Quality comes with price. Top quality fiberglass resin made in the U.S. can be expensive, while you can also find cheap fiberglass. It is all up to you how much you are willing to invest in your body kit.
Even the most accomplished do-it-yourselfers find installing a body kit quite complicated that it would be advisable to seek professional help. Ask your body kit manufacturer for recommended dealers in your area or recommended shops that could do the job. Check other sources like the yellow pages and the internet as well. Make sure that the shop has ample experience in such field and could do a good job at painting the kit. Check out pictures of previous works that the shop has done and select the shop that is most comfortable for you.
About the Author
James Brown writes about
AutoSport Catalog discount codes
,
Performance Products deals
A 1971 Super Beetle for sale?
One of my classmates in college has a yellow super that he is selling for $1,000. It is missing a running board and it has a dent in every fender. Aside from that the body is strait, there is no rust, and it runs. The car used to be a daily driver and is a California car. It sat for 9 years but started right up with some gas and new oil.
I am aware that the supers are known for more problems with shimmies and shakes on the front end right? Is there a fix for that by using urethane bushings all around? What else should I be aware of with the McPherson front end? It can't be made higher for dune buggies but it doesn't matter because I don't need it for that.
The reason why I want his super is because it has a larger gas tank, more trunk space and it handles better on the highway which is where I'll be using it most of the time.
What should I look out for on this car and be aware of? Is 1971 a year to avoid for the Supers?
Ive been running Beetles for many years now and unless you know them well, people will always tell you what a heap they are. Most of these people have never owned one or know anything about them other than what they have heard. Here is what you need to know about buying a bug.
Fenders and running boards are easily sourced and very very cheap. When looking at the bug, open the engine cover and grab hold of the lower engine crank pulley. Pull and push it and make sure there is very little movement (known as end float). Also make sure the spark plugs are nipped up nicely and none of them keep turning. Aftermarket heads are known for having crappy threads. Listen also for exhaust blows around the heads. All these things are easily fixed but negotiate on price if any of these are evident. Ask what oil he runs it on and when it was last changed. beetles use oil as well as air to keep cool. Bodywise, open the doors and grab hold of the inner sill and squeeze it hard. If it crunches, walk away. thats the main heater channel and its one of the few major jobs on a Bug. Better still peel back the carpet and look for poor welds and patches. You are bound to find repairs which is fine if they are done well. Look under the front fenders and look for holes where the floor meets the inner wing. Easy fix but another negotiating point. Check the guttering and the windscreen surround for rust, look in the spare wheel well for rust. Seats usually wear badly, its very common but headlinings should be ok although easy to replace. The mc pherson front end is brilliant for the highway and far superior to the old beam setup. If the car has sat for a long period then overhaul the brakes etc as you would normally do on any car thats stood up. All easy and cheap to do. If you find a good Beetle you will be hooked, ive had hundreds and i own 5 now!! My daily driver is a 1971 1302 Super and its absolutely reliable and massive fun. A 1302 super has a round front end and flat windshield, the 1303 super has a round front end and curved windshield. Only problems while driving is crosswinds, they dont like them much, but far from dangerous. Good luck and i wish you well if you buy it. Regards,
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how to paint a ws6 trans am hot yellow. acrylic urethane paint from summit racing